Вот и пришло время вплотную заняться выращиванием собственной рассады томатов — готовить почвенную смесь, разобраться с запасами семян, обновить, может быть, в какой-то степени свои сорта, дополнив их покупными гибридами (с гибридов ведь семена не собирают). Огородники чаще всего предпочитают безгоршечный способ выращивания рассады — ящики занимают меньше места, чем отдельные емкости. Мы привыкли действовать по традиции.
Десятилетиями выращивали рассаду так — зачем сейчас менять сложившуюся систему? Но ведь чужой опыт может оказаться и чрезвычайно полезным. Можно на своем подоконнике опыты произвести, чтобы самому увидеть, какой способ лучше.
Емкости для рассады могут быть самыми разными. Добрую службу несут пластиковые бутылки. Их режу!’ на цилиндры высотой 12-15 см. Потом эти стаканчики без дна разрезают еще и сбоку, сшивают нитками или обвязывают. Рассаду оттуда вынимать легко.
Можно делать подобные емкости из пленки. Есть еще один «народный» метод: в дело идут стаканчики из-под лапши или еще чего-нибудь. В донышке вырезается отверстие (меньшего размера, чем донышко). Затем надо сделать из какой-то пластмассы кружок диаметром, как у донышка, и вложить внутрь.
При высаживании рассады ком земли выдавливается вложенным донышком. Через рассаду мы, как правило, выращиваем перцы, томаты, баклажаны, сельдерей, а семена огурцов и кабачков попадают сразу в грунт. Но можно ведь несколько кустиков поторопить, чтобы снять с них ранний урожай.
Эти культуры при пересадке никак нельзя травмировать, они очень хрупкие. Рассаду можно выращивать в тех же цилиндрах из пластиковых бутылок. Внизу вырезают небольшие клинышки, тогда при поливе в поддон влага поднимется к корням.
Сверху лучше не поливать, чтобы почва не уплотнялась, «дышала ». При пересадке на постоянное место землю с растением продавливают вниз, в посадочную лунку настолько, чтобы освободился корень.
Если на участке есть медведка, то цилиндр лучше не убирать, пусть на 2-3 см выступает над поверхностью — тогда вредитель обойдет это растение стороной.
Доводилось читать еще об одном доморощенном опыте. Отрезанная верхняя часть пластиковой бутылки заполняется почвой, туда кладут семена. Эту емкость открытым горлышком вниз втыкают в теплице или в ящик с землей.
При поливе лишняя вода стекает вниз, а в то же время при необходимости растения подпитываются влагой снизу, почва не пересыхает быстро.
При пересадке растение легко вынимается вместе с комом земли. В прежние годы, было, огородники увлеклись выращиванием рассады в торфяных горшочках. Это считалось оптимальным вариантом.
Но быстро они поняли, что горшочки нельзя просто закапывать в землю, растение не в силах пробить дно и стенки, надо ему помочь. То есть при пересадке на постоянное место каждый горшочек требовалось разрезать.
Для выращивания рассады капусты, перца, томата, баклажана, физалиса, сельдерея почвосмесь должна состоять из одной части дерновой или компостной земли, двух — перегноя и одной — песка. На ведро такой смеси добавляют пол-литровую банку древесной золы, а под капусту еще и стакан извести-пушонки.
Рассаду томата, физалиса, баклажана выращивают и на почвосмеси, состоящей из равных частей перегноя и торфа. В обоих случаях на ведро смеси добавляют 60 г суперфосфата и 20 г сульфата калия. Вместо этих удобрений можно добавить 100 г огородной минеральной смеси и пол-литровую банку древесной золы.
Безгоршечный способ
Этот метод выращивания рассады наиболее распространен. Семена сеют в ящики, другие емкости, в теплицы и холодные рассадники, а когда подходит срок — выдергивают растения и помещают их на постоянное место. Этот способ вроде бы позволяет получать растения нужных качеств, но у него есть «минусы».
Во-первых, для посева затрачивается большое количество семян. Во-вторых, при выборке рассады значительная часть корневой системы обрывается, вследствие чего приживаемость растений ухудшается, период реабилитации длится дольше, и все это сказывается на сроках выхода продукции.
Горшечный способ
Тут каждому растению отводится своя емкость — бумажная, торфопрессованная, полиэтиленовая, керамическая, пластмассовая. Таким образом создаются условия для хорошего развития корневой системы.
При аккуратной пересадке корни не повреждаются, растение страдает намного меньше, чем при выдергивании. Такую рассаду высаживают в открытый грунт в более ранние сроки и старшего возраста.
Величина насыпных емкостей зависит от культуры, мощности ее корневой системы и листового аппарата. Для выращивания рассады старшего возраста размеры горшочков увеличивают.
Этот способ всем хорош, да хлопот приносит много: емкости отдельные приготовь, места они занимают много, выносить такую рассаду и заносить бывает труднее, чем когда она сидит в ящиках.
Кассетный способ
Неплохо себя зарекомендовал кассетный способ выращивания рассады. Такие емкости с маленькими ячейками продаются в специализированных магазинах. Казалось бы, растения не могут хорошо себя чувствовать, размещаясь в таком маленьком объеме почвы.
Но метод себя вполне оправдал. Срабатывает тут то же преимущество, что и на пленке, — при пересадке сохраняется корневая система, растения легко приживаются на новом месте.
Маленький земляной ком бывает весь пронизан корнями, его удобно высаживать. Использование этого метода позволяет снизить возраст рассады на 10-30 дней, уменьшить период ее адаптации в поле на 7-10 дней и довести приживаемость почти до 100 процентов.
Сокращается в несколько раз расход семян, сильно увеличивается выход рассады с единицы площади.
Таким образом можно выращивать даже традиционно посевные культуры — лук, морковь, свеклу, петрушку и т.д. Кассетные блоки производятся с разным количеством ячеек — от 72 до 308 ячеек.
Они имеют форму цилиндра или усеченной пирамиды с открытым дном. Расход почвенной смеси невелик. Для посева в кассеты необходимы семена с высокими посевными качествами. Перед посевом их желательно намочить и прорастить.
В ячейку кладут по одному семени, сверху присыпают смесью и накрывают стеклом или пленкой до появления всходов.
Кассетные блоки выставляют на подставки таким образом, чтобы расстояние между дном ячейки и грунтом (подоконником) было не менее 4 см. Тогда корневая система растений не выходит за пределы ячейки и при выборке полностью сохраняется.
Получается крепкий прикорневой комочек, удобный для высадки.
Исследованиями и производственной практикой в сельхозакадемии установлен оптимальный возраст кассетной рассады: огурцы — 12-15 дней; томаты, перец, баклажаны, капуста, лук, морковь, свекла — 25-30 дней.
Сроки посева семян определяются запланированными сроками высадки рассады в открытый грунт. Лук, морковь необходимо высевать во второй декаде февраля, столовую свеклу — во второй декаде марта, томат, перец, баклажаны — в первой декаде апреля, огурцы — во второй декаде апреля, раннюю капусту — 1 марта, капусту позднюю — 1 мая.
Особенностью выращивания кассетной рассады является четкое соблюдение режимов выращивания. Отклонение от оптиума даже на небольшой срок может привести к утрате качества или гибели рассады.
Необходимо постоянно следить за влажностью субстрата в блоках и поливать по мере надобности. До появления всходов температура должна быть на уровне 20-25 градусов.
После появления всходов температуру можно поддерживать на уровне 16-18 градусов днем и 8-12 — ночью. Температурный режим можно регулировать проветриванием или переносом кассет в более прохладные помещения, на улицу. Из-за маленького объема почвы необходимы частые подкормки — через пять-семь дней. Первую подкормку проводят при появлении первого настоящего листа. Подкормки совмещают с поливами.
За семь дней до высадки рассаду закаляют. В теплицах температуру снижают снятием 30 процентов пленки, а в домашних условиях при солнечной тихой погоде выносят ее на балкон, веранду или на улицу.
Высаживают рассаду с поливом, мульчируют приствольный круг. Уход в дальнейшем общепринятый. Замечено, что такие растения обладают большей устойчивостью к неблагоприятным факторам внешней среды.
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