Пересадка пионов — чрезвычайно ответственный процесс в выращивании этих прекрасных многолетников. Именно от правильно выполненной данной процедуры зависит, насколько обильно будут цвести (и будут ли вообще) ваши цветы. При хорошо выполненной пересадке этого растения, на одном месте куст пиона может нормально развиваться порядка 15-20 лет. И цветение его будет обильным.
Краткое содержание
- 1 Как и когда лучше пересадить пионы
- 1.1 Подготовка
- 1.1.1 Выбираем лучшее время для пересадки
- 1.1.2 Как выкопать корни растения
- 1.1.3 Процедуры с корнями
- 1.1.4 Обрезка стеблей
- 1.1.5 Состав почвы для цветов
- 1.2 Посадка
- 1.2.1 Подготовка лунок
- 1.2.2 Глубина высадки
- 1.2.3 Если не успели подготовить ямки
- 1.1 Подготовка
- 2 Пересадка с делением корней пионов
Как и когда лучше пересадить пионы
Для успешной пересадки пионов, которую можно делать и весной, и после цветения, и осенью — разницы вообще никакой, необходимо выполнить всего несколько обязательных условий, от которых, в целом, зависит конечный результат данной процедуры. Не стоит забывать и о выборе места под выращивание этого многолетника. Наряду с альстромерией, он любит солнечные участки, хорошо защищенные от ветров. Пион предпочитает суглинистую, слабокислую или нейтральную, водопроницаемую, питательную почву. Пересадку этого цветка производим на заранее подготовленные клумбы на участке.
Подготовка
Выбираем лучшее время для пересадки
По правде говоря, наилучшее время для пересаживания пионов — конец лета. Эту процедуру можно проводить до октября. Идеальными днями для пересадки данного цветка являются теплые дождливые дни. В такую погоду посадочный материал лучше приживается и пускает много молодых корешков. Некоторые дачники высаживают кусты весной. Для этого наиболее всего подходит апрель и май. Иногда весенняя посадка приводит к гибели посадочного материала. Это обусловлено частой сменой температурного режима, засушливой погодой и недостатком влаги. При высадке весной необходимо постоянно следить за влажностью грунта и по мере необходимости поливать молодые кустики.
Как выкопать корни растения
Корневая система взрослых кустов достигает 70-90 см в глубину, поэтому извлечь её из земли довольно сложно. Куст пионов окапываем на расстояние 15-20 см от корневища, а затем выкапываем при помощи вил, чтобы не допустить значительного повреждения корневища растения. За неимением данного садового инструмента можно использовать лопату. При пересадке очень старых и сильно разросшихся цветов лучше всего пользоваться обычным ломом. Он необходим для «расшатывания» куста вместе с мощным земляным комом. После такого действия его легче вынимать из земли.
Процедуры с корнями
Выбор садового инструмента зависит от размера растения и качества грунта. После извлечения корневища из земли аккуратно отряхиваем его от комков почвы. При налипании влажного грунта делаем промывание корней пионов водой. Они должны быть максимально очищенными от любых загрязнений. При проведении очищающих манипуляций соблюдаем предельную осторожность, чтобы не повредить корешки и почки цветов. При наличии повреждений на корнях следует обработать их древесной золой, чтобы предотвратить загнивание и проникновение в ткани растения патогенных микроорганизмов.
Обрезка стеблей
После подсушивания выкопанного многолетнего куста обрезаем стебли на высоту 5-7 см. Некоторые дачники производят обрезку стеблей ещё до момента пересадки куста, но такое действие значительно усложняет дальнейшие манипуляции с пересаживаемым растением, поэтому лучше всего срезку побегов производить после выкапывания куста.
Состав почвы для цветов
Земля для выращивания этих цветов на дачных участках должна быть довольно рыхлой, влаго- и воздухопроницаемой. Наиболее подходящий её состав: дерновый грунт, торф, крупнозернистый речной песок, перепревший перегной (1:1:1:1). В каждую ямку добавляем хорошо перемешанную смесь, состоящую из:
- Костной муки — 300-400 гр,
- суперфосфата — 70-100 гр,
- древесной золы — 300-400 гр.
На довольно бедных почвах к данной питательной смеси можно добавить поташ и железный купорос. Не забываем об удобрении, при необходимости, и, конечно же, избавляемся от сорняков.
Посадка
Лунки, под корневища пионов следует приготовить за 10-14 дней до их пересадки. За этот период грунт в подготовленной ямке успеет хорошо осесть, и после посадки цветов он не будет оседать. В этом случае не понадобится подсыпание земли сверху корней, которое приводит к увеличению глубины посадки деленок, нежелательному для этого растения. В последнем случае пионы, в дальнейшем, просто вообще не цветут!
Подготовка лунок
Несмотря на то, что для посадки корневищ многолетника требуется небольшая глубина, яму под них готовим довольно глубокую. Особенно это необходимо на участках с плохим дренажем почвы. Копаем яму, глубиной 50 см. Если естественного дренажа на участке нет, яму углубляем до 70 см. Для устройства дренажа на дно ямы насыпаем керамзит или крупный песок, слоем в 15-20 см. Ямку заполняем почти доверху заранее подготовленным грунтом.
Глубина высадки
При пересадке пиона его корни нельзя заделывать на большую глубину. Самая оптимальная глубина для расположения верхушки корневища — 3 (максимум 5) см от уровня земли. Перед заглублением корней цветов в почву их следует обильно полить. После посадки растения мульчируем торфом или опавшей листвой. Это предотвратит высыхание земли и повысит шансы на приживаемость растения. В жаркую погоду посадки пионов поливаем, а в дождливую — нет.
Если не успели подготовить ямки
В том случае, когда яма под пионы не была вовремя подготовлена, а возникла необходимость срочно посадить имеющиеся корневища, посадочный материал не следует заглублять в почву на глубину. На взрыхленную почву выкладываем части корневища почками вверх, а затем просто окучиваем их. Толщина земляного слоя над посадочным материалом не должна превышать 5 см. Спустя несколько дней грунт осядет, а корни цветка окажутся на необходимой глубине.
Пересадка с делением корней пионов
Пересадка данного цветка зачастую сопровождается размножением его с помощью деления корневища на несколько частей. Количество деленок многолетника определяется размером и возрастом пересаживаемого куста. Если растение еще довольно молодое (2-3 года), его нельзя делить на много частей, поскольку оно долго будет развиваться до состояния нормального куста. Для размножения подходят пионы, у которых на корневище имеется не менее 10 здоровых почек.
Перед делением корневища на части дезинфицируем острый нож. Разрезаем корни так, чтобы не повредить здоровые почки. Все движения выполняем в направлении вверх-вниз. Нормальной считается деленка, на которой имеется не менее 3-х здоровых почек. В противном случае, новое растение долго не сможет зацвести даже при идеальном уходе. После разделения корневища на части высаживаем их на постоянное место.
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