Клубнику (напомним, что так мы условились называть для простоты садовую землянику) очень удобно и легко выращивать на ровной земле, без грядок.
Проследим весь ее путь к урожаю от подготовки земли до рассадки усов, чтобы лучше показать некоторые усовершенствования, которые мне позволили увеличить число и размер ягод.
Получать крупные ягоды у клубники совсем не сложно, для этого не обязательно часами сидеть над грядками.
На первый взгляд может показаться, что крупные ягоды можно получить только после применения навоза. Почву перед посадкой клубники обычно стараются очень хорошо удобрить.
Еще бы, ведь она будет расти на одном месте до пяти лет. И в последующие годы удобрять навозом будет нельзя, чтобы не вызывать излишнего роста листьев, поэтому стараются хорошо удобрить с самого начала. В землю под клубнику вкапывают перепревший навоз, компост.
Мы тоже можем внести в землю немного растительно-фекального перегноя. Вкапывать его надо за месяц или больше до посадки кустиков клубники.
Чем лучше перемешано удобрение с землей, тем быстрее оно будет усваиваться и разлагаться. Годится делянка, с которой в июне убрали редис или салат, и она содержится чистой для посадки клубники.
Тогда ее можно сразу удобрить. Небольшое количество компоста поможет получить более крупные ягоды.
Но можно компост вообще не вкапывать. Удобрения для клубники — далеко не самое важное. Для нее важнее свежесть почвы.
Золу не обязательно вносить перед посадкой. Уже следующей весной мы будем посыпать золой землю вокруг кустов против жуков, и этого будет достаточно.
Кусты клубники принято сажать на расстоянии 30-40 см друг от друга, а потом досаживать новые на место неприжившихся или больных кустов.
Я же применяю сильно уплотненную посадку.
Когда мы рассаживаем свою клубнику, у нас чаще всего бывает много усов, и мы можем сажать их в 2 —3 раза гуще обычного, то есть на расстоянии около 10 — 15 см друг от друга.
Пока растения молодые, на следующий год после посадки, им еще не тесно. Они хорошо цветут и дают первые ягоды.
В этот период первого плодоношения мы можем отметить кусты, которые нам не понравились. Сразу удаляем их.
В любой посадке клубники обнаруживаются потом слабые кусты. Хотя они все и приживутся, но часть кустов не разовьется в сильные, будет плохо плодоносить. Статистика сказывается и на клубнике.
И если сажать ее, как принято, через 30-40 см, то сильных кустов будет немного.
Подсаживание же новых усов не даст сразу сильные кусты. Мы сразу сажаем плотно, чтобы потом удалить всё слабые кусты.
Грядки клубники прореживаем с таким расчетом, чтобы после первого плодоношения удалить не меньше трети, а то и половины кустов, и дать оставшимся достаточно жизненного пространства.
В результате у нас останутся только сильные кусты на грядке. Больные и слабые кусты можно удалять еще раньше, весной.
Когда ягоды начинают краснеть, проводим завершающую отбраковку по величине ягод. Первые красные ягоды всегда и самые крупные, поэтому по первым краснеющим ягодам можно вернее всего судить о кустах. Кусты, которые дали мелкие ягоды, помечаем, чтобы потом удалить.
С пометкой кустов не надо затягивать, так как после сбора первых крупных ягод вы уже не различите, какие растения хорошие, а какие плохие.
Попутно можно помечать и самые урожайные кусты, чтобы потом только с них получить усы для новой делянки. Такая вот селекция.
Вы быстро научитесь определять растения с хорошим плодоношением. Даже осенью по количеству и величине оставшихся засохших цветоносов можно сказать, сколько этот куст дал ягод.
При уплотненной посадке бороться с сорняками несколько труднее. Между молодыми кустами проходит только тонкая тяпка.
За сорняками нужно следить довольно внимательно, не давая траве сильно разрастаться. Опасность заключается в том, что если куст сорного растения разросся впритык к молодому кустику клубники, то, выдергивая его, можно повредить корни самой клубники. В этом случае сорное растение удаляют скручивающим движением.
Где и какую брать рассаду?
Многим кажется, что для получения крупных ягод нужно достать хороший сорт на смену своему, «выродившемуся». Да, несомненно, есть хорошие сорта.
Но пока вы их будете приобретать в питомниках или у знакомых, попробуйте рассадить свои усы и создать им хорошие условия.
По крайней мере, у вас будет сразу много рассады. И вполне возможно, она окажется не такой уж плохой. Одновременно если вы пожелаете, сможете размножать на замену усы нового приобретенного сорта.
Лучшее время для рассадки своих усов — конец июля, начало августа. Конечно, далеко не все усы успели образовать кусты и укорениться, но те, что успели, должны быть посажены именно сейчас. В конце августа, а тем более в сентябре сажать уже слишком поздно.
Извлеките из своей прежней грядки все однолетние усы, которые сможете найти. Их легко узнать по свежей, зелено-белой корневой шейке.
У усов второго года уже успели появиться бурые чешуйки. Клубника очень хорошо приживается, включая кустики с одними только зародышами корешков, поэтому за один раз можно приготовить много усов.
Сажают молодые кустики в неглубокие бороздки и хорошо поливают. Через некоторое время им можно начать подбрасывать прелую траву.
Тому, кто решит заняться клубникой всерьез, конечно, понадобятся отдельные книги, посвященные только ей. У клубники, как и у каждой культуры, много своих секретов, о которых в одной главе не расскажешь.
Вы узнаете, например, что получать год за годом усы от своих же растений бесконечно не получится, так как ягоды понемногу из поколения в поколение мельчают.
По этой причине не стоит брать усы у соседей, если только у них не достаточно свежая линия. Лучше всего, как мне кажется, купить несколько хороших племенных кустов из питомника.
Года за два из усов от них вы создадите себе посадочную площадь нужного размера и дальше будете долго продолжать размножать этот сорт с помощью своих же усов.
Удаление старых листьев с кустов клубники — непременное дело. Их вырезают секатором после сбора ягод для оздоровления всей делянки. Или можно совместить обрезку старых листьев с августовской рассадкой усов.
Если старые краснеющие листья не удалены в прошлом гаду, то это можно сделать весной, до отрастания свежей листвы.
Обрезав старые листья вокруг кустов, мы дадим грядке возможность лучше проветриваться в пору плодоношения.
Обычно мы ботву садовых растений оставляем на месте, но в случае с клубникой надо сделать исключение. Старые покрасневшие листья нельзя оставлять под кустами клубники, так как для нее особо важна свежесть почвы.
Выращивая клубнику, можно отойти от общих правил не только в плане уплотненной посадки. Не держать кусты на одном месте дольше двух лет, тогда как клубнику принято выращивать на одном месте до пяти лет. Считается, что первый урожай маленький, второй и третий максимальные, а четвертый и пятый — средние.
Согласитесь, что пять лет — огромный срок. За это время кусты клубники сильно старятся, середина мертвеет, и только по краям распускаются слабые листья.
Почва между кустами полностью истощается, в ней накапливается много вредителей. Сама природа этой ягоды говорит о том, что кустам надо побыстрее менять место: с помощью усов лесная земляника старается побыстрее «уползти» на свежую землю.
Посадив клубнику плотно, как было описано выше, и достаточно рано — в начале августа, мы уже в первый год получим полноценный урожай.
Кусты будут обильно цвести, ягоды будут достаточно крупными или даже крупнее обычного. Листве в середине лета станет несколько тесно, но мы уже скоро проведем прореживание.
На следующий год тоже будет максимальный урожай, пик. Оставлять клубнику на третий год нет смысла. Ягоды будут мелкими.
Кроме того, если вы запустили прополку, что случается довольно часто, то на третий год сорняки покажут себя во всей своей силе.
Мне кажется, удобнее постоянно создавать с помощью усов свежие делянки, а отплодоносившие во второй раз — побыстрее срезать. Что я и делаю.
Усы надо выбирать и пересаживать каждый июль и начало августа. Чем раньше они будут посажены, тем больше будет урожай на следующее лето.
К концу июля уже успевает вырасти много усов, и, по крайней мере, часть из них можно начинать высаживать на новое место. Если не хватило, ждем, пока подрастут остальные, и продолжаем досаживать в августе.
Клубника, посаженная в сентябре, даст слабый урожай.
По нашей системе борьбы с сорняками делянка с клубникой выглядит пышным островком, окруженным ровной чистой землей. Вокруг нее сорняки удаляем широкой тяпкой, внутри пропалываем вручную.
Выше я упомянул, что ягоды в первый год бывают крупнее, чем в последующие годы. Действительно, у многих садовых культур есть необычное свойство, которое нельзя не заметить.
Самые первые плоды как у клубники, так и у яблонь и смородины очень крупные, хотя их и немного. Особенно это заметно на яблонях.
Многие садоводы подтверждают: зрелые яблони регулярно и обильно плодоносят, но таких красивых и крупных яблок, как те несколько первых, уже не бывает. Трудно сказать, с чем это связано.
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