Уход за рассадой

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Уход за рассадой
Какими бы ни были емкости для рассады, а максимальный срок, через который семена томатов должны взойти, — 10 дней. Капусте отведено 8 дней, баклажану — 14, перцу — 15. Если за это время всходы не появились — значит, или семена вы взяли негодные, или сами наделали ошибок. Каких? Глубоко «закопали» семена, не выдержали температурный режим, неправильно или редко поливали.

Появились петельки — сразу выставляем рассаду на освещенное и уже более прохладное место. Ваша задача — поливать, пересадить пореже, подкармливать, расставлять емкости пошире, чтобы растения не заслоняли друг друга, подсыпать землю, если вдруг ваши питомцы чересчур быстро устремились вверх. Рассада вытягивается по двум причинам: высокая ночная, а может, и дневная, температура воздуха и недостаточная освещенность.

В домашних условиях могут помочь штора из пленки или даже белая занавеска (допустим, из старой простыни). На ночь нижний край шторы кладут на подоконник. В этом случае теплый воздух от батареи отсекается, а ночной холод от окна остается в зоне рассады. Очень хорошо было бы иметь штору из фольги со стороны комнаты, она отражает свет, улучшается освещенность, рассада не вытягивается и не гнется к окну, остается прямой.

А внутренние рамы, кстати, можно снять с петель и временно убрать куда-нибудь в сторонку — тогда подоконник будет более просторным, да и рассаду можно отодвинуть чуть подальше от зоны прямого воздействия батареи. Если ночь окажется непредвиденно холодной (кто знает, какие сюрпризы готовит природа), можно устроить штору между стеклами и рассадой. Рассаде не требуется много воды. Излишек влаги может вызвать неприятное заболевание — черную ножку.

В пасмурную погоду лишний полив приносит только вред. Обильно рассаду поливают только при пересадках. Пикировать рассаду или не надо? Под этим термином подразумевается пересадка с прищипыванием центрального корня. У этого агроприема есть свои «плюсы» и «минусы ». При пикировке образуется более густая и компактная «борода» корней, растения легче переносят пересадку, а на грядке их корни попадают в наиболее плодородный слой почвы. В то же время пикировка задерживает рост, ведь она все же травмирует растения, и сказывается на урожайности не в лучшую сторону — уменьшает ее. А вот перевалка растения в другую емкость травм ему не наносит.

Недаром считается, что перевалку комнатных растений в другой горшок можно устраивать круглый год. Черпая опыт в разных публикациях, не забывайте его соотносить с климатическими особенностями своего края. У нас — засушливая зона. Если ваш огород не избалован поливами, то пикировку не устраивайте, растениям потребуются именно длинные корни, чтобы потом они добывали влагу из более глубоких слоев почвы. Подсыпать ли землю в ящики и стаканчики, когда рассада подрастет? Скажем так: желательно. Это стимулирует рост дополнительных корешков.

Земля оседает, растения идут вверх, и добавка бывает нужна. Лучше, если земля будет рыхлой и нехолодной. На засыпанной части стебля быстро образуются новые корни. Учтите, касается это только томатов, у перца дополнительные корни не образуются. Все более или менее опытные огородники знают, что рассада с посиневшими стеблями перенесла холод и уцелела — значит, закалена. Это так и есть. Помидоры с самого начала очень чувствительны к фосфорному питанию.

Даже если фосфора в почве достаточно, при низких температурах он не усваивается, и рассада «синеет». Светлые стебли — показатель того, что растения холода не видели (а может, и прохлады тоже), они изнежены. Закалка необходима, чтобы после пересадки в открытый грунт легче переносились перепады температур, и стресс от них не стал губительным. Но заставлять «синеть» все же не к чему, фосфорное голодание пользы не приносит.

Источник: supersadovod.ru

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